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EOE : Exploratory Overland Expeditions

Photos by Rob Richer

 

Expedition Diaries

India

Posted by Kirsty on June 28th 2007
Written on the 2007 London to Sydney expedition

Our impressions of India are colourful saris, turbaned men, tasty curries, temples, sacred cows, manic drivers, open sewers and humid heat. We love it!!!

Phew!!! What a relief it was to drive into India. Once again there was a dramatic change as we entered a new country. However, this time it was just the people that changed. Women; we could see women everywhere. And not just women, but gaggles of girls and women dressed in brightly coloured saris; smiling and laughing. The effect was immediate; everyone’s spirits were lifted and the hardships of Pakistan forgotten. I am also guessing that arriving at an established campsite with green gardens, beers on ice and a swimming pool contributed somewhat to the elation of the group.

There is intense rivalry between Pakistan and India. We quickly learnt that to get on the good side of an Indian, you just have to tell them you preferred India over Pakistan. This rivalry is characterised by the pomp and ceremony of the ‘official’ border closing ritual, which is attended by thousands everyday. 

India has been our first experience of the many temples to come on this trip. First up was the Golden Temple in Amritsar, the holy city of the Sikhs. As the name suggests, it is a temple of gold (750kgs) surrounded by a bathing pool renowned for its healing powers. Very serene.

We then made for the hills (if you can call the Himalayas ‘hills’) to McLeod Ganj – home to the exiled 14th Dalai Lama from Tibet and his followers since 1949 (since China took over Tibet). A very surreal place; Buddhist monks, stunning scenery and rickshaws/taxis with very loud horns – Buddhism meets tourism.

Coming down from the hills we had a marathon drive to the mayhem of Delhi. Staying right smack in the middle, on Connaught Circle, we were able to enjoy both the delights of New Delhi with its structured streets and manicured lawns (legacy of British empire) and Old Delhi with its narrow streets, low hanging wires and bazaars. Right next to each other, but worlds apart.

Arriving at our ‘palace’ in Jaipur to traditional drums and a flower lei was a superb welcome to the Pink City. This was topped off by an authentic Ragistani Puppet show on our palace rooftop. Very entertaining. The next day was spent cruising around in rickshaws to the many city sights – forts, monuments, palaces and bazaars; or just ‘shopping ’til you dropped’ in the craft capital of India.

It was then to the crown jewel of India - the Taj Mahal in Agra. WOW!!! It has to be seen to be believed. A monument to love, the Taj was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan between 1632 and 1648 as a mausoleum for his wife.  A definite highlight!!!

We arrived in Varanasi a couple of days ago and enjoyed a chilled out day by the pool and having massages and barber/beauty treatments yesterday .  This overlanding lark is a tough game, but someone’s got to do it.  This morning we had a very early start - up at 4.30am to experience a sunrise boat trip on the famous Ganges River.  The Ganges can best be described as the river of life and death.  Not only does all aspects of daily life occur here (washing of clothes, bathing, swimming, drinking etc.) but the Hindus cremate their deceased here on the burning ghats and descard remains into river.

In Delhi we farewelled the Himalayan trekkers, who flew out to Kathmandu to start their trekking tours in Nepal. Dave, Nick and Jen are trekking through the scenic Annapurna Range, while Rach, Av and Martin are doing the hard core climb to Mt. Everest Base Camp on the Nepalese side. Our thoughts are with them while we lounge by the pool in our nice hotel with a cold beer in hand by the Ganges River.  Go guys!!!

Some others caught an overnight train from Delhi to Varanasi to complete the Indian experience. A good time was had by all (but not much sleep it would seem).

In general, everyone is happy and healthy and whilst we have really enjoyed India, the cooler climate of Nepal will be a welcome respite.

 Gaggles of colourful Indian women collecting water

Holy Cow!!! Or is that Sacred Cow?

Colourful crowd at Pakistan Indian Border Closing Ceremony

Pakistan India Border Closing Ceremony

Mr Champion at the Golden Temple

Sikh boys at Golden Temple

Old Indian Man

Something about the thin mountain air makes you crazy

Will getting a few drumming tips

Buddhist monk saying a prayer

Prayer wheels at McLeod Ganj

Chris, Stu and Danny at TGI Fridays, Delhi for Danny's b'day

Being welcomed at our 'palace' in Jaipur, 'The Pink City'

Tor at Peacock Gate, City Palace, Jaipur

Grant and Jock do the sights of Jaipur

Traditional puppet show in Jaipur

Ragistani Puppeteer

Tor looking splendid in her sari

Procession of elephants in street - just another day in India

Just love the painted elles

Snake charmer (we hope...)

Punchy, Tor, Johnno and Danny at Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal

More Taj...

And more Taj...

Sunrise boat ride of the Ganges River

Ganges River - there is no escaping souvenir sellers

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