Eastern Turkey and Iran
Posted by Kirsty on May 21st 2007
Written on the 2007 London to Sydney expedition
Where were we??? Ahh, the traditional Turkish night out in Goreme – belly dancers and whirling dervishes extravaganza. What a night. We discovered we have a John Travolta crossed with Mr Bean – class Chris, all class. The food was fantastic – it just kept coming, including copious amounts of wine and beer. Great night out had by all!
Ankara, Turkey’s capital was our next destination with official business on the agenda – visas for Pakistan. After much bureaucratic hoop jumping we obtained the appropriate sticker in our passports and were on our way. We now have a clear run in terms of visas until Nepal.
Next stop was south and involved a very steep but scenic drive up Nemrut Dagi (Mt. Nemrut). After camping at the top, we donned our hiking boots and climbed the last bit at sunrise to the burial tumulus and Hierotheseion (’Holy Seat) of the 1st century BC Commagene king, Antiochus I Epiphanes, where statue heads of the king and deities now lay. Sadly, it was overcast but it added to the mystic atmosphere.
From Nemrut Dagi we left the well worn backpacker trail and ventured into Eastern Turkey. It is amazing how completely different the east is from the west in Turkey; the landscape, the people and the way of life. Highlights in the east were camping beside Lake Van (surrounded by snow capped mountains), stopping in small villages (surrounded by children asking ‘What is your name?) and Dogubeyazit (surrounded by flood waters).
Dogubeyazit; known by travellers as ‘Doggy biscuit’ will forever live in our minds as ‘Soggy biscuit’. Having been extremely lucky all through Europe and west Turkey we experienced our first rain on the trip here. But of course we don’t do anything by halves; it wasn’t just a shower – it consisted of hail and torrents of rain that washed away roads (even those some of us were travelling on in a taxi – Av, Lorna, Rach, Will, Des and wee Martin). However, the morning was glorious which afforded those of us who were adventurous stunning views of Ishak Pasa Palace (18th century) and Mt Ararat. Upon closer inspection, the palace revealed intricately carved stone and decoratively painted walls.
It was then with some trepidation that the girls dressed in chador style clothing and head scarves necessary under the Iranian Islamic Dress Code for crossing the border into Iran. But it was not long before we were all commenting on and admiring each others head scarves and ways of wearing them like all girls and fashion.
We have now been in Iran for a week and again we have experienced the vast diversity one country can offer. A visit to Babek Fort in the mountains, camping by rice paddy fields on the Caspian Sea (or is it a lake – jury still out on that one), hiking to waterfalls in lush valleys at Masuleh and camping in desert near the Persian Gulf – all in one country and all in a week – incredible!
We have been causing quite a stir wherever we go. In Masuleh, the truck (and clearly Steve in his greasy overalls) was the main tourist attraction with many locals and day trippers asking not if they could take a photo of the truck but could they have their photo taken with Steve and the truck. Hilarious! Speaking of which, the looks and effect on traffic we have is amusing – especially having a female driver let alone a chador wearing one.
It is dumbfounding every time we go to the fuel station in Iran – where else in the world do you buy 100 litres of diesel for less then one pound sterling. Fuel cheaper than water; who would have thought. But then again we are in one of the world’s biggest oil producing countries and in the desert.
Currently we are enjoying the city of Esfahan, with its beautiful river, bridges, squares, parks, mosques and bazaars. It has been quoted as being ‘Iran’s masterpiece, the jewel of ancient Persia and one of the finest cities in the Islamic world’. And it is easy to see why. But all that aside, the beauty of Esfahan comes from its people; Iranian people are by far the most friendly and helpful people we have encountered on this trip.
We have another day of exploring bazaars and mosques and lazing in parks and tea houses in Esfahan before heading south through more desert to the infamous ruined city of Persepolis and crossing over into Pakistan.
Til next time…
Previous Entry: Turkey & all it has to offer…
Next Entry: Iran and Pakistan
